Canada's ban on American alcohol has removed about US$357 million from US exports in just over a year, The Drinks Business reported on October 20, citing Wine Institute figures that it describes as the worst single-year disruption in the history of US wine trade. The dispute escalated in September, when Washington moved from 50% tariffs on selected Canadian goods to banning several Canadian imports, alcohol included. Canadian wine is filling the gap: home-market sales are up about 60% in Ontario and 40% in Quebec since the ban began. Walla Walla winemaker Doug Frost of Echolands told the outlet his export business disappeared overnight.

I work on both sides of this border. Grus Drinks imports and distributes wine in New York and Toronto, so I watch two markets that used to trade freely now move in opposite directions. What stands out to me is how fast habits change. A provincial liquor board can take a whole category off the shelf in a day, and the customer simply buys what is there.

That is the part that will outlast any trade deal. Ontario and Quebec drinkers have spent more than a year discovering their own producers, and an Ontario winemaker quoted in the article doubts they will drift back. When the ban lifts, US wineries will not step back into the positions they held. They will be relaunching brands against local wines that now have loyal buyers.

For importers, the lesson is concentration risk. A portfolio that depends on one country of origin, or one route across one border, can be shut by a decision nobody in the trade controls. In my view, an importer serving New York and Toronto has to plan each market on its own terms, so a tariff or a ban in one direction does not empty the list. Producers choosing a North American partner should ask how that partner would cope if their main route closed tomorrow.